The NYT writes about a “hamburger”chain in Holland that features a six-inch-thick contraption, replete with truffles, sixteen kinds of cheeses and a wooden shoe. And it costs $2o bucks. And no french fries! Whatever it is they’re selling over there, it’s not a hamburger.
A hamburger, to riff on that old joke about Queen Elizabeth, must fit in my mouth. If you need a knife and fork to dissect it, you’ve moved into the category of pot roast, or something. The best hamburgers I make involve the use of a hamburger press and an 85/15% mix of ground hamburger, served on a sandwich-sized English muffin, a slice of red onion, salt, pepper and ketchup. That’s a hamburger. Anything else is some effete version of Dutch/New York Times food.